September 2005
  Food & Wine

The title and picture of this Show at The Jermyn Street Theatre, promised to be very witty. Creating an imaginative dish I was already visualizing a pair of Asparagus stems instead of legs, jutting out of the pastry. What should one use for socks, perhaps red peppers. This would make a nice party dish for Ladies nights.

For Gentleman Only -, four and twenty Blackbirds baked in a Pie, when the Pie was opened the Birds began to sing and Lady Caroline Lamb emerged from the dough and froth much to the consternation of her husband Lord Palmerton, PM of England

MATSURI ST. JAMES, 15 Bury Street, Mayfair, London
Tel: 020 7839 1101.

I know very little about Japanese Cuisine so it was interesting to visit this Restaurant and come to grips with Chopsticks (I still need a knife to cut up the larger pieces).

Situated in a large basement, the Restaurant consists of U-shape tables, with a hot plate in the ‘U’ and the Chef in front of the hot plate so that you can watch what can only describe as a ‘Culinary Cabaret’.

The Chef deftly chops freshly cut pieces of fish, meat and vegetables, stir frying and toss pepper pots and condiments over his shoulders to land with precision on the sizzling items of food.

The piece de resistance is the Wagyu Beef – distinguished by its wonderful marbling – the rich flesh has been described as ‘beef foie gras’ – a velvety, melt in the mouth perfection. (I heard that the Cow has a daily massage and drinks beer) which is why the meat is so succulent and marbled.

FLAMBE – various Beef dishes are flambéed, the flames leap up, the tab le lights are dimmed and a round of applause greets the Chef’s performance. As it happens frequently during the course of the evening it is wonderful entertainment.


ITALIAN-BERTORELLI - Charlotte St, London.

A choice of 11 Pizzas – I chose Pizza with mushrooms, artichoke, Parma ham, capes, olives, anchovies and mozzarella cheese. I couldn‘t cut it with a knife and fork, so I asked the Manager to carve it for me. The Pizza shell was crisp but like cardboard - I eat it with my fingers. The filling was delicious.

BERTORELLI - Frith Street, London.

A choice of 9 Pastes - I chose Tagliatelle with sautéed squid and sweet red peppers. Long strands of Spaghetti can be manoeuvred with the aid of a spoon. But Taglliatelle is a different ball game - thick, flat tape like strips practically gave me a face wash. Tasty but tricky.

In next month’s issue of HOTGOSSIP I plan to review 3 new HOT SPOTS, which promise to combine gourmandism with the London social scene.

HAPPY BUBBLES - JOAN - The Slender Gourmet.

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